Ghosts of Salem

Are you going to Salem at Halloween?

I spend most Halloweens in “Witch City” (as it’s called), honoring the spirits and celebrating with the other revelers.

These are my best recommendations if you’re in Salem during the Halloween season.  (They’re listed by general location, and in alphabetical order.)

Many people start with a photo at the “Bewitched” statue featuring Samantha sitting on a crescent moon.  It’s on Essex Street, near the middle of town.

If you’re shopping, the “real” Witch shops in the Essex Street area include Hex (246 Essex Street, Salem).  It’s almost across the street from the Bewitched statue.  Hex is one of Salem’s most unusual shops, with a mix of old world Witchery plus the flair and romance of New Orleans’ French Quarter.  [Read my review of Hex in Salem.]

Around Pickering Wharf, be sure to visit Artemisia Botanicals; The Cat, the Crow and the Crown (Laurie Cabot’s store); and Nu Aeon.

Almost across the street from Pickering Wharf, Pyramid Books is a popular destination for tourists.  Their book collection is especially inclusive, with Pagan, New Age, and mainstream self-help books.

After browsing the many shops around Pickering Wharf, eat where the locals do:  Brothers Restaurant and Deli, with cafeteria-style service, delicious food and great prices.  It’s at 283 Derby Street, about two and a half blocks from Pickering Wharf.

Stroll back towards the Salem Regional Visitor Center and pick up a map and brochures about museums, tours, and popular attractions.  There’s plenty to do in Salem, whether you’re visiting for the day or vacationing for a week.

So far, my favorite ghost tour is the Salem Night Tour, which leaves from the Remember Salem gift shop at 127 Essex Street, about half a block from the Visitor Center.

If you’re looking for a genuine, ghostly encounter, visit Remember Salem (127 Essex Street) and Fool’s Mansion, next door to it. Ask the staff about their ghosts.  They have intriguing stories about what’s beneath your feet when you’re on Essex Street.  The staff’s personal encounters with whatever’s down there… well, they tell impressive, first-person stories.

I’ve also heard some good, eerie tales about the Haunted Cottage, just in back of Fool’s Mansion and Crow Haven Corner.  (It’s tucked away from the crowds, along a little brick-paved alley, between the two stores.)

Be sure to visit the memorial to the Salem ‘Witches’ who were killed in 1692.  Those stones are next to one of Salem’s oldest cemeteries, with its own ghost stories.

Not far away, the Witch House is well worth a visit.  It’s a great view of Salem’s legendary history, and most of the rooms are haunted.

(From my recent investigation with UK psychic Gavin Cromwell:  On the second floor, one room holds the spirit of a very angry man.  He sits in the corner and resents visitors, but also wants their respect.)

There are many circles, celebrations and parties in Salem on Halloween night.

The traditional Samhain circle is still held by the Temple of the Nine Wells.  It’s at Gallows Hill Park, around dusk.

Tread lightly if you’re there.  According to tradition, the bodies of the “witches” were thrown down the hill, towards the park, after the 1692 hangings.

It’s often a chilling experience to be there on Halloween, but there is also a reverence and a spirit of renewal that’s part of the celebration.

The Halloween events continue on November 1st, at the Official Salem Witches’ Halloween Ball.  I’ll be one of the guests, and — like many people — I’ve been looking forward to this party all year.  We’ll be honoring the spirits at the Hawthorne Hotel, which has its own ghostly reputation as well.

There are many other great shops, parties and events around Salem during the Halloween weekend. Expect large, boisterous crowds, outrageous costumes, and street performance and demonstrations that range from entertaining to simply odd.

Important:  Arrive in Salem early and find a place to park.  (I recommend parking in a central location.  You’ll be doing a lot of walking, as Salem celebrates from one end of the city to the other.)

To get the most from your visit, plan to stay in the downtown area.  Most Salem hotels are booked solid up to a year before Halloween.  Make your reservations early for the best locations.

If you’re commuting, choose a designated driver, and allow extra time to navigate the crowded Salem streets when you’re ready to leave.

If you’re visiting Salem on short notice, I recommend Priceline.  (I’ve had great luck with them.)  Nearby towns include Peabody, Danvers, and Beverly.

Salem is an ideal place to spend Halloween.  Everyone should see the city during its most popular season, at least once.   If you’re like me, you’ll return every year.  It’s one of the most unique celebrations in the world, with carnival-style fun and historical reflections.  It’s far more than just “trick or treat.”

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